I’ve been making boats look shiny since I was a little kid; it’s become a passion, therapy, and investment all-in-one.
Along the way, I’ve picked up a few pointers to make this process easier. Here you go:
1) Wear Gloves. Most polishes and waxes will turn your hands into sandpaper for a few days. I keep a box of recyclable gloves onboard for this project. (Sometimes I forget to put them on, and I curse at my idiocy for the subsequent days.)
2) Understand Buffer Pad Strengths. This applies for those using an orbital buffer (which I highly recommend otherwise your shoulders will hate you). The buffer pad color chart was mainly designed for painted metal (i.e. cars), so it’s important to recognize that fiberglass (assuming that’s what you’re polishing) is a little more hearty. I use a green pad for regular upkeep polishing (every 6 months or so). For surfaces that are a bit more drab, go orange or yellow. I’ll use a blue pad for waxes, but rarely ever do I use black and red on fiberglass; it doesn’t really do much.
3) Tackle the Bow First. The bow has the most surface area, and it requires the most awkward stance. I do that right out of the gate when I’m inspired and not aching; it’s much easier to do the stern where I can stand on the ground and face the boat from a normal angle (assuming the boat is dry-docked).
4) Work Top to Bottom. A boat is dirtiest at the waterline. To avoid your buffer pad from picking up too many contaminants, start high on the hull sides and eventually get to the waterline. Be careful not to buff any of the anti-fouling paint; a buffer pad will pick that up immediately and start spreading a dark mess all over your shiny fiberglass.
5) Use Good Polishes and Waxes. These don’t have to break the bank, but the key items I look for are: 1) ease of application, 2) lifespan, and 3) environmental friendliness. Nobody paid me to say this, but I’ve found the Chemical Guys’ marine line to be stellar in all three areas. Nothing is worse than using a polish that dries to a white crust and requires tons of effort to remove. No thanks. (Also, Chemical Guys’ water spot remover is my secret weapon.)
6) Layer on Spray Wax. There are tons of great spray waxes out there, and they are super easy to apply. Wax is like putting on sunscreen. After I polish the boat, I do a few coats of a spray wax (you can do this days apart from each other so long as the surface is clean). I’ve been having success with Glidecoat (even if the name sounds like something you’d find in a certain section of the local pharmacy). Protip: apply spray wax every 1-2 months.
7) Don’t Even Lift, Bro. Polishing and waxing takes physical effort, and if your muscles are rebuilding themselves after doing countless deadlifts, it’s going to be a painful experience. Avoid weight training 1-2 days before you plan to polish and wax. (Oh yeah, you will be plenty sore after making your boat look its best, but isn’t she worth it?)
No Responses